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With the economy as it is, maybe you have thought about growing your own food, including putting in your own fruit trees. Growing your own fruit is fun, but there are a few things to know about the process.
First, you need to decide what type of fruit you want. To get your tree to pollinate may require planting two fruit trees, ideally fifteen to twenty feet of each other. The two fruit trees do not need to be the same. For example you can plant Macintosh apples and Galas. If you buy a tree that is labeled to be self-pollinating, it is still better to veer on the safe side by planting more than one variety. Also, you will want to plant your trees in either the spring or fall. And remember, if you are planting seedlings, it could take a few years before it starts to produce fruit.
To give your fruit tree a healthy start, dig your hole about 18" in depth and with a pitchfork, fork the bottom and sides of the hole to loosen the soil. Now place some compost at the bottom of the hole and then shovel a little dirt back into the hole. Now you can set your tree in the hole with the root ball on top of the mound you have now created. Spread roots evenly in all directions. Now fill your hole with soil and press the ground down gently with your foot. Check that the tree is vertical. Be sure to 'overfill' the hole so the soil is an inch or two above ground level. The soil will compress when watered, and settle to ground level.
It may be necessary to stake your tree, this will help keep it stable during windstorms. Tie your tree to the stake with a rubber tie or piece of cloth. The tie should be loose so as not to girdle the tree. You also want to allow plenty of room for the trunk to grow and thicken. Now water your tree thoroughly and pack the soil again. You can now apply shredded bark mulch or pine needles to the circle around the tree to discourage weed growth and help the soil remain a consistent temperature.
As you wait for your fruit tree to grow and mature you can give it some extra help by maintaining much around the base of the tree, fertilize it with any lawn fertilizer
in the spring and in the fall, and protect its tender, emerging branches from deer, mice and other wildlife.
In the spring of the second year, your tree may produce some flowers, which, if left on would develop into fruit. It is better to pinch these flowers off and let the tree have another full year to develop its root system.
Once you are ready to let your tree bear fruit, when the fruit gets to be about the size of your thumbnail, you may want to thin it out some. If you let your fruit grow to closely together it will not get as big in size as you may like. Unless freezing spring temperatures reduces the number of viable fruit blossoms, your fruit trees will set more fruit than they can grow to optimum size. These overabundant number of fruitlets will compete for limited plant resources—this is why you will want to thin.
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First, you need to decide what type of fruit you want. To get your tree to pollinate may require planting two fruit trees, ideally fifteen to twenty feet of each other. The two fruit trees do not need to be the same. For example you can plant Macintosh apples and Galas. If you buy a tree that is labeled to be self-pollinating, it is still better to veer on the safe side by planting more than one variety. Also, you will want to plant your trees in either the spring or fall. And remember, if you are planting seedlings, it could take a few years before it starts to produce fruit.
To give your fruit tree a healthy start, dig your hole about 18" in depth and with a pitchfork, fork the bottom and sides of the hole to loosen the soil. Now place some compost at the bottom of the hole and then shovel a little dirt back into the hole. Now you can set your tree in the hole with the root ball on top of the mound you have now created. Spread roots evenly in all directions. Now fill your hole with soil and press the ground down gently with your foot. Check that the tree is vertical. Be sure to 'overfill' the hole so the soil is an inch or two above ground level. The soil will compress when watered, and settle to ground level.
It may be necessary to stake your tree, this will help keep it stable during windstorms. Tie your tree to the stake with a rubber tie or piece of cloth. The tie should be loose so as not to girdle the tree. You also want to allow plenty of room for the trunk to grow and thicken. Now water your tree thoroughly and pack the soil again. You can now apply shredded bark mulch or pine needles to the circle around the tree to discourage weed growth and help the soil remain a consistent temperature.
As you wait for your fruit tree to grow and mature you can give it some extra help by maintaining much around the base of the tree, fertilize it with any lawn fertilizer
in the spring and in the fall, and protect its tender, emerging branches from deer, mice and other wildlife.
In the spring of the second year, your tree may produce some flowers, which, if left on would develop into fruit. It is better to pinch these flowers off and let the tree have another full year to develop its root system.
Once you are ready to let your tree bear fruit, when the fruit gets to be about the size of your thumbnail, you may want to thin it out some. If you let your fruit grow to closely together it will not get as big in size as you may like. Unless freezing spring temperatures reduces the number of viable fruit blossoms, your fruit trees will set more fruit than they can grow to optimum size. These overabundant number of fruitlets will compete for limited plant resources—this is why you will want to thin.
selling fitness
hosted switch, voip switch